To be honest I hadn't really intended to join the discussion myself, just put this out there. But, as for my computer, it's an Acer with the most worn keyboard you've ever layed eyes on. I can't even see the letters on some of my keys. I keep the screen in a 4:3 ratio even though it's a widescreen, because I like it that way. I love having a laptop because most of the time I am able to use it while lounging around on my bed. I have a desk with a widescreen monitor on it, a usb keyboard and usb mouse that I hook into the laptop when I'm photoshopping.
I see, I "gave" my laptop to my sister, I Just use the family computer, Which is more newer and works Better, I can't Really download anything On it, Just random pictures, If That counts, Anyway Back onto the topic, How big is your Hardrive?
250GB. It's not the biggest, it's more than big enough for everything I'll ever need. Most of my stuff is taking up only about 5 GB of total space.
Mine is probably around That same amount As well, Oh Well, Its not Like we Need it anyway...kisumi said:
250GB. It's not the biggest, it's more than big enough for everything I'll ever need. Most of my stuff is taking up only about 5 GB of total space.
I got 2.25 TB on my desktop, used up 2.03 TB already...Katsumi said:
Mine is probably around That same amount As well, Oh Well, Its not Like we Need it anyway...
Main Computer:
Server:
Router:
(later added) Laptop:
Server:
Router:
(later added) Laptop:
I guess it will be here if someone has problems with his/her computer then. Or other technical talk.
charly no gaming rig? im disapointed
Main comp
Lap Top
Main comp
Lap Top
Neither do I have a pc for gaming. This crap lenovo laptop I have is enough so far. I'm still thinking if I should build my own PC or buy one.
Poor soldering has killed more than one laptop power lead.
I don't really have a gaming PC either, since the tower in the corner only runs 98SE on a Pentium 2 or 3 with about 512Mb RAM and two 10Gb HDD.
My laptop is an Asus K50IJ. Pentium 2.1Ghz 64bit Dual core, 4Gb RAM, 320GB HDD, Win 7 Home.
I don't really have a gaming PC either, since the tower in the corner only runs 98SE on a Pentium 2 or 3 with about 512Mb RAM and two 10Gb HDD.
My laptop is an Asus K50IJ. Pentium 2.1Ghz 64bit Dual core, 4Gb RAM, 320GB HDD, Win 7 Home.
Oh tech stuff!
My desktop
Notebook
Netbook
My desktop
Notebook
Netbook
Technology...I don't get it at all. All I know is that I have a computer. I was born in the wrong century.
nope, no gaming rig. i don't play the most recent stuff that will turn my computer in an expensive heater... i stick with older titles, so my setup is more than fine with me.Cipichan said:
charly no gaming rig? im disapointed
I suggest build one.FoliFF said:
Neither do I have a pc for gaming. This crap lenovo laptop I have is enough so far. I'm still thinking if I should build my own PC or buy one.
I made my gaming computer about when I was eight (eight years ago) for $500 and only upgraded the memory and the RAM once in between then and now. And it is still one of the best gaming computers I have seen and compared to most that I have played against online. I also got a laptop for Xmas about four years ago and am currently always using it at my moms house. I upgraded the memory on my laptop once. I don't remember my computers components at the moment and don't really feel like finding out. I'm saving up $1000 to build a super gaming computer (my favorite part of building a computer is making it look like you could put it in a school computer lab from the outside >^_^<) so I can have the other one at my moms house. I can make a great one for $500 still, but I wanted a super one.
windows 7 home premium. pny gts 450 geforce-used to be a 9800gt, but it broke... amd athlon 64 x2 dual core processor 3100mhz... 2 gigs of ddr3 x2... baracuda hdds- one 400 gigs, another 100 gigs-i actually don't need much space... used over 100 gigs... gigabyte motherboard-not sure what model... the best part is... there's 6 fans ;3 and actually not that noisy! hm... hopefully for christmas i'm getting the casing changed to something UBER cool! something transparent, full programmable leds ;3 ooohh <3 one monitor, actually my tv, got onlive hooked up, my wii, a dvd player-kinda useless though... and of course my pc something like 1080dp, full hd... something like 20"-any bigger it will kill my eyes...
as for my laptop...it's not worth mentioning... i don't use it anymore, major bsod-even after getting fixed lots of times, eugh...
as for my laptop...it's not worth mentioning... i don't use it anymore, major bsod-even after getting fixed lots of times, eugh...
Yush I'm looking for a decent computer screen to my computer. I only got an area of 110x50 (cm) to play with. Which where my xbox, computer, fan and TV is placed atm. The TV takes half of the space already so if I can eleminate so I can have more space for my computer and a computer screen which can supports TV (I guess HDMI would do the trick but I need speakers then, if the speakers isn't already built in)
In other words a computer screen with both HDMI and displayport which can replace my TV.
Now I'm finally finished with my own built PC. Got a score of 7,6 out of 7,9. Well no suprise really since I bought one of the finest part to it, which also hurted my wallet.
In other words a computer screen with both HDMI and displayport which can replace my TV.
Now I'm finally finished with my own built PC. Got a score of 7,6 out of 7,9. Well no suprise really since I bought one of the finest part to it, which also hurted my wallet.
I'm a minor fan of Dell Monitors. While I despise any mass produced PC (boutique or home build for me), Dell's monitor are quite nice. I had 2x 2407 WFP-HC (1920x1200) previously and I loved them.
Dunno how much you can spare for a monitor, but if you want quality, ignore anything that is TN-based (or doesn't even tell you want LCD technology the panel is based on.) IPS is the goal, though there are a few variations of the tech in use. There's another LCD tech out, though I forget the name right now. (It's like MVA or something close.)
My current monitor is TN-based and it's actually a bad choise for image editing due to the narrow vertical viewing angle (I get discoloration above a certain viewing angle.) Useful for picking out inconsistencies in an image, but bad if I'm going for color accuracy and reproduction.
Anyway, most decent PC monitors come with an HDMI-in port and hopefully include an Audio-out port if they don't have built-in speakers. Until I bought my 40" TV, I had my PS3 hooked up to my monitor via HDMI. I had the audio passed through the HDMI to the Audio-out on the monitor. Connected that to the Audio-in on my PC. That let me still use the speakers attatched to my PC without have to switch connections on 2 things (the speaker input and monitor).
Dunno how much you can spare for a monitor, but if you want quality, ignore anything that is TN-based (or doesn't even tell you want LCD technology the panel is based on.) IPS is the goal, though there are a few variations of the tech in use. There's another LCD tech out, though I forget the name right now. (It's like MVA or something close.)
My current monitor is TN-based and it's actually a bad choise for image editing due to the narrow vertical viewing angle (I get discoloration above a certain viewing angle.) Useful for picking out inconsistencies in an image, but bad if I'm going for color accuracy and reproduction.
Anyway, most decent PC monitors come with an HDMI-in port and hopefully include an Audio-out port if they don't have built-in speakers. Until I bought my 40" TV, I had my PS3 hooked up to my monitor via HDMI. I had the audio passed through the HDMI to the Audio-out on the monitor. Connected that to the Audio-in on my PC. That let me still use the speakers attatched to my PC without have to switch connections on 2 things (the speaker input and monitor).
I bothered my parents to buy me a 24" widescreen for christmas (or a split present for christmas / birthday if it's too expensive for them for a single present ...), though, I'm still looking for a good and cheap thingy ... All screens at the local stores are in a 16:9 ratio and on top of that, no screen has a higher resolution than 1920x1080. Well, I'm sure it would need to be a larger screen if I want my 2560x1600 resolution, but the only screen I found in a quick search was too expensive.
Wich in fact means ... I have no clue, what screen to choose. My main purpose will be watching videos or playing one or the other game. I'm only doing simple graphic editing, so color correctness isn't that much important to me. Any suggestions?
Wich in fact means ... I have no clue, what screen to choose. My main purpose will be watching videos or playing one or the other game. I'm only doing simple graphic editing, so color correctness isn't that much important to me. Any suggestions?
If it's just for simple practical reason, you should be able to get by on most anything. While I dislike 1920x1080 (I prefer 16:10 ARs), consumer trends (damn HDTVs) have pushed that Res and AR to the front of the pack. Seems only pro-grade monitors use that AR now. Consumer grade is mostly 16:9.
A good 24" 16:10 monitor seems to run about $400-600 USD (I'm guessing it's the same number in the EU, but with Euros instead, from the trends I've seen about US/EU pricing.) Those run IPS panels though. You can get reasonable TN-based monitors for less than half that. You give up viewing angels and color reproduction though (especially if you skimp out and wind up getting a 6-bit panel instead of a standard 8-bit panel.)
2560x1600 is the domain of 30" panels, so you're looking at a least a grand for that. I've yet to see a consumer-grade 30" mon. Pretty much all the ones I've come across are pro-grade IPS panels. (27" will get you 2560x1440, a 16:9 AR res. A bit cheaper than the 30's, but I like I said, I dislike 16:9 AR for PC use.)
If you're willing to accept 1920x1080, you can go as low as 22", though 1920x1080 is kinda rare. You're more likely to see 1600x900 or 1680x1050 at that size.
Still, I do sorta recommend a decent IPS panel with anti-glare matte coat (instead of gloss). The colors just look better in everything, the viewing angles are awesome, and with matte, you don't get as much bloody glare. I'm currently on a TN gloss screen @ 1920x1080 and I kinda despise it. Get's the job done, but I got spoiled by my older dual Dell 2407-WFP set up when I was in JPN. They're in storage under the care of a friend. I've been tempted to have them and my Cintiq shipped to me now that I've been living at my own place (I was boarding witha friend for a while, so didn't have the room for them.)
I hear the IPS Dells and HPs trade blows. Samsungs and LGs at 24" don't seem to be bad, either. They do cost a bit, though Dell offers a stripped down version of their top-grade 24" panel (U2412M I think is the model name) for a bit less.
A good 24" 16:10 monitor seems to run about $400-600 USD (I'm guessing it's the same number in the EU, but with Euros instead, from the trends I've seen about US/EU pricing.) Those run IPS panels though. You can get reasonable TN-based monitors for less than half that. You give up viewing angels and color reproduction though (especially if you skimp out and wind up getting a 6-bit panel instead of a standard 8-bit panel.)
2560x1600 is the domain of 30" panels, so you're looking at a least a grand for that. I've yet to see a consumer-grade 30" mon. Pretty much all the ones I've come across are pro-grade IPS panels. (27" will get you 2560x1440, a 16:9 AR res. A bit cheaper than the 30's, but I like I said, I dislike 16:9 AR for PC use.)
If you're willing to accept 1920x1080, you can go as low as 22", though 1920x1080 is kinda rare. You're more likely to see 1600x900 or 1680x1050 at that size.
Still, I do sorta recommend a decent IPS panel with anti-glare matte coat (instead of gloss). The colors just look better in everything, the viewing angles are awesome, and with matte, you don't get as much bloody glare. I'm currently on a TN gloss screen @ 1920x1080 and I kinda despise it. Get's the job done, but I got spoiled by my older dual Dell 2407-WFP set up when I was in JPN. They're in storage under the care of a friend. I've been tempted to have them and my Cintiq shipped to me now that I've been living at my own place (I was boarding witha friend for a while, so didn't have the room for them.)
I hear the IPS Dells and HPs trade blows. Samsungs and LGs at 24" don't seem to be bad, either. They do cost a bit, though Dell offers a stripped down version of their top-grade 24" panel (U2412M I think is the model name) for a bit less.
I have a problem with the AC adapter, it got scorching hot, i mean it actually burned my hand, also it stopped providing power.
Fair to say i was pushing the laptop but i didnt know i could actually overheat the adapter.
usage was 4Hrs Saints Rows using 80% of processor, high performance mode, 100% gpu @ 20% core OC. It doesnt smell like burned but its waterproof so i dont think it would let the smell out.
And i was scared about the graphics itself overheat silly me, it didnt budge over 75C.
Do you think its dead(if so its gonna be missed), or just a safety feature. also any tips on cooling the damn thing?
Fair to say i was pushing the laptop but i didnt know i could actually overheat the adapter.
usage was 4Hrs Saints Rows using 80% of processor, high performance mode, 100% gpu @ 20% core OC. It doesnt smell like burned but its waterproof so i dont think it would let the smell out.
And i was scared about the graphics itself overheat silly me, it didnt budge over 75C.
Do you think its dead(if so its gonna be missed), or just a safety feature. also any tips on cooling the damn thing?
You could have very well literally burned the PSU block out. Safety fetaure would mean you blew the fuse in it. Either way, I doubt the power block is user serviceable. You'll probably have to get a replacement.
Even if the thing still works (somehow) after you let it cool, it might have a shorter lifespan now.
GPU's can suck up a significantly higher level of power than any CPU I know of. (CPU don't go past 130 watts in most cases. Video cards can hit 300 watts with dual GPUs, 225 watts single GPU. At least in desktop. Laptop GPUs tend to be lower power versions unless you're talking gamer set-up. Laptop CPU usually don't exceed 65 watts; 35/45 is more typical.) An overclock (with or without overvolting) doesn't help matters. You might've been pushing the PSU at max or higher capacity for far too long. The biggest power blocks I've come across are only rated at couple hundred watts max.
I'd get a new one and tone down the settings just to be safe. Unlike desktop systems, you generally can't get a power block rate with lots of headroom. (Manufacturers tend to be very good at matching PSUs to needs, if not slightly undermatching them in some cases.)
Even if the thing still works (somehow) after you let it cool, it might have a shorter lifespan now.
GPU's can suck up a significantly higher level of power than any CPU I know of. (CPU don't go past 130 watts in most cases. Video cards can hit 300 watts with dual GPUs, 225 watts single GPU. At least in desktop. Laptop GPUs tend to be lower power versions unless you're talking gamer set-up. Laptop CPU usually don't exceed 65 watts; 35/45 is more typical.) An overclock (with or without overvolting) doesn't help matters. You might've been pushing the PSU at max or higher capacity for far too long. The biggest power blocks I've come across are only rated at couple hundred watts max.
I'd get a new one and tone down the settings just to be safe. Unlike desktop systems, you generally can't get a power block rate with lots of headroom. (Manufacturers tend to be very good at matching PSUs to needs, if not slightly undermatching them in some cases.)
it seems ok now that its cooled.No need for panic. its alive.
my entire laptop power output was 80W @stock(its actual measured power drain on the power outlet) but my guess what topped it was both the game and empty battery at the same time.
Cpu is 25W + 10W integrated graphic(not used) + 35W GPU
The rest would be screen,cooling,ram,etc.
P.S. No more high performance mode for me.*goes to the corner and cries*
EDIT: Adapter made for 90W output....
my entire laptop power output was 80W @stock(its actual measured power drain on the power outlet) but my guess what topped it was both the game and empty battery at the same time.
Cpu is 25W + 10W integrated graphic(not used) + 35W GPU
The rest would be screen,cooling,ram,etc.
P.S. No more high performance mode for me.*goes to the corner and cries*
EDIT: Adapter made for 90W output....
If i wanted to play skyrim on my computer but i didnt have a good graphics card what kind of graphics card would you suggest ( think cheap plz) Also i have one in mind its called the evga- GTS450. But im not sure if it would be good enough to run the game on decent or better than decent graphics.
GTS can max crysis on full hd.
You should state your target resolution as well. going from 1680x1050 to 1920x1200/1080 can make a difference.
If you want, AnandTech keeps a profile of GPUs with their performance benchmarks for comparision. I read AnandTech often and the content they create is interesting to read, to say he least. Skyrim isn't on their benchmark list, yet, but other games should give you a frame of reference for what to expect.
I've been living on my Radeon 5770 for the past 2 years fairly. Then again, I don't play many hardcore games like FPSes. Still, you can probably get by on a 6850-class or so video card if that's the case. Perhaps even a 6770-class card. (I'm not sure what the Geforce equivalents are off the top of my head. I've been using Radeons in my desktops since 2001. Only my laptops have used something else, those being a Geforce FX in 2003, Intel GMA950 in 2007, and Intel GMA4500 in 2010.)
If you want, AnandTech keeps a profile of GPUs with their performance benchmarks for comparision. I read AnandTech often and the content they create is interesting to read, to say he least. Skyrim isn't on their benchmark list, yet, but other games should give you a frame of reference for what to expect.
I've been living on my Radeon 5770 for the past 2 years fairly. Then again, I don't play many hardcore games like FPSes. Still, you can probably get by on a 6850-class or so video card if that's the case. Perhaps even a 6770-class card. (I'm not sure what the Geforce equivalents are off the top of my head. I've been using Radeons in my desktops since 2001. Only my laptops have used something else, those being a Geforce FX in 2003, Intel GMA950 in 2007, and Intel GMA4500 in 2010.)
Just the fact that it can max Crysis graphics is enough to tell me that its awesome but i dont know what kind of card it is and how much it is. i dont think that the cheapest card from GTS could max out crysis. though i could be wrong.Cipichan said:
GTS can max crysis on full hd.
Oh and i'm using the site newegg.com but i guess it would be a good idea to look at other sites.
In theory any modern card can play Crysis maxed. Whether the framerate is PLAYABLE is another matter. (Again, highly dependent on your target resolution as well.)
Even I use Newegg for the vast majority of my hardware purchases.
Anyway, I suggest just looking at various hardware review sites. Anandtech is one (though it might be a tad hard to browse there since they cover general tech news as well.) I used to read Tom's Hardware and Guru3D until I got sick of the writing style. (Guru3D sounded like an utter fanboy writing most of the time. The numbers and data were fine; the writing, amateurish.)
How cheap is "cheap", anyway?
Even I use Newegg for the vast majority of my hardware purchases.
Anyway, I suggest just looking at various hardware review sites. Anandtech is one (though it might be a tad hard to browse there since they cover general tech news as well.) I used to read Tom's Hardware and Guru3D until I got sick of the writing style. (Guru3D sounded like an utter fanboy writing most of the time. The numbers and data were fine; the writing, amateurish.)
How cheap is "cheap", anyway?
Let me rephrase that. GTS 450 1GB GDDR5 Can run skyrim @ 1920x1080 @ High to Ultra(with 4x AA) at 40-50 FPS. That is a simmilar graphic card to GTX 460.
Correction Ultra @ 1650x1050(or something), High @ 1920x1080
Correction Ultra @ 1650x1050(or something), High @ 1920x1080
I have changed my CPU-cooler with noctua NH-U12P. Since it have 3-pin connector instead of 4 I get an error message in BIOS which says there is no CPU-fan connected on the motherboard, which really bugs me. I have it all connected but not on the 4-pin which is suppose to be for the CPU-fan, which I also can't since I have a 3-pin connector on NH-U12P... I wonder how I can solve this problem <.<
They have adapters for that, actually. The fourth pin I think is for speed control/monitoring. Kinda necessary for the CPU fan if you want to control noise. (Otherwise it'll just run on max or some other preset speed the whole time and not adjust to load.)
Did you remember to put a fresh coat of thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler since you did a swap? (Or at least smooth out the paste still left on the CPU before placing the new cooler on it?)
Did you remember to put a fresh coat of thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler since you did a swap? (Or at least smooth out the paste still left on the CPU before placing the new cooler on it?)
Niku
over 13 years agoTech Talk
Okays! Now talk about server speeds, hard drives, computer specs, monitors and operating systems takes place here!
I created this thread because I felt it would be a constructive contribution... but I really don't have anything to say about technology. except that vibrators run on batteries, contrary to popular belief, not on C or Ds, but on AA most of the time. Also, if it's stopped working, sometimes it's as simple as unscrewing the end cap to see if a wire has come loose from heavy usage. You'd be surprised that sometimes the soldering isn't too great, but this can usually be fixed with a bit of electrical tape.